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Shackles & Stainless Steel Fittings
The connecting hardware that holds a boat together. Stainless and galvanised D, bow, twisted and long-pattern shackles; snap shackles and swivels from Wichard and Lewmar for halyards and sheets; carbine hooks, rapid links and rings; deck eyes, saddles, lacing eyes and low-friction rings; drop nose pins and fast pins; and the handles, catches and latches that do the same job below decks.
Everything here should be chosen against a stated working load, not by eye or by what fits the hole. A4 (316) stainless is worth the premium anywhere permanently exposed or highly loaded; galvanised steel is stronger and cheaper for ground tackle where appearance matters less. And whatever you fit, the fastening behind it is usually what fails first - through-bolt anything that takes real load, with a backing plate spreading it into the laminate.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a D shackle and a bow shackle?
A D shackle has parallel sides and is strongest in straight-line pull, which suits a single attachment. A bow shackle has a rounded body that accepts loads from several directions at once, so it suits multi-leg attachments and anywhere the pull angle changes - at the cost of a little strength for its size.
A4 or A2 stainless?
A4 (316) contains molybdenum and resists salt water pitting far better, so it belongs anywhere permanently exposed, highly loaded or below the waterline. A2 (304) is fine for interior joinery and light-duty fittings, and costs noticeably less.
Why do my stainless shackle pins seize?
Stainless galls against stainless - under friction the threads effectively cold-weld, and a seized pin usually has to be cut out. A smear of anti-seize compound on the thread before assembly prevents it entirely, and costs a few pence per fitting.
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